Animal print

WORDS Alice wyllie

Animal print gets a bad press. Too long has it been associated with barmaids and drag queens, when really it's a surprisingly understated way to inject a little print into your ensemble.

It rears its head every few seasons, but for autumn/winter 2010 it's positively roaring. Dolce & Gabbana has never hidden its love for leopard print, and it's offering a couple of ultra-sexy leopard dresses.

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However, absolutely everyone is doing an animal print coat, from Moschino and Gucci to Dries Van Noten and Etro. Our favourite comes belted at Ferragamo, but for those who'd rather purr than roar, the best way to work this trend is to do it is somewhere unexpected: not on a clingy polyester, marabou-trimmed dress, but perhaps on a pair of ponyskin brogues or gloves.

From boots to bags, animal print is all over accessories this season, and works just as well with jeans and a crisp white T-shirt as it does with your favourite little black dress.

Sixties tailoring

Everyone's gone mad for Mad Men, which is no surprise, as anyone who's ever seen Christina Hendricks in a twin-set will testify.

However, there can be a tendency, when designers nod to the late 1950s/early 1960s for the result to be a little too 'sexy secretary'. Here we look to Miuccia Prada and Miu Miu, where 1960s tailoring was given a decidedly 21st-century makeover, with gentle A-lines, bows and high necks, all in a palette of pistachio greens and warm mustards. Isabel Marant also ran with the trend, which looks like it will continue well into 2011 after the increasingly influential Victoria Beckham recently showed 1960s silhouettes for spring. For those averse to subtlety, belted waists, pencil skirts and a little cleavage will cut it. Sharp tailoring is key, as is embracing and enhancing the hourglass figure. Make no mistake however; this is a high-maintenance look. It requires effort, precision and time to get it perfect. Remember that Joan Holloway, Betty Draper et al may look good, but their emancipation is still a decade away, and they might just long not to give a damn about their perfectly applied lipstick and sexy tailoring. Embrace the trend by all means, but be thankful that restrictive clothes and high heels are not your only option for autumn/winter 2010.

Capes

Don't get too excited. The cape of 2010 is more Mad Men than Superman. It's all about an ultra-ladylike aesthetic, and is particularly suitable for anyone who views their arms as non-essential. With its clean lines, the cape works well with the minimalist vibe, and it's nothing if not cosy. Not one for wallflowers, this most theatrical of garments was embroidered at Erdem, fluffy at Celine and shiny at Yves Saint Laurent. Fans of classic camel have plenty of choice, from Alexander Wang to Carolina Herrera, but despite what the glossies say, this is no easy garment to pull off. Sleeveless autumn outerwear is like crotchless pants: draughty. For tackling Scottish weather, ensure your arms are suitably covered up, with long sleeves or elbow-length gloves. If you're brave enough to do a cape, go for long or black (never both unless you want to look like the Scottish Widow) and be sure to ensure your arms aren't restricted when walking down stairs.

Wearable minimalism

Minimalism is misleading. It sounds simple but it's surprisingly tricky to pull off. Popularised by the likes of Calvin Klein and Helmut Lang in the early 1990s, it's all about form following function. Think sharp lines, minimal embellishment and a neutral palette. It sounds straightforward, but what makes minimalism tricky is that, in order for it to succeed, it has to be clean, crisp, neat and, essentially, perfect. Not good when we all sweat, bend and eat bacon butties with too much ketchup. However, the second wave of minimalism - which started with a ripple with Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine earlier this year - might be christened 'wearable minimalism'. Philo's mantra for this season was "Strong, powerful, reduced" and her collection features the kind of simple, classic pieces that might be handed down to the next generation. This is less like the extreme minimalism of the 1990s and closer to a new simplicity. Following in Philo's footsteps are Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe and Stella McCartney, both of whom have shown simple, classic pieces this season. It's no coincidence, perhaps, that three powerful women in their 30s have managed to nail this trend.Androgynous footwear

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The fashion world is getting rather excited over the trend for what they are calling "mannish" footwear. We simply like to think of it as shoes you can walk in. These are shoes that don't force your feet into unnatural positions, shoes that aren't so dainty they wear through in weeks, shoes that protect your feet from the elements, from the pavement juice and from hospitalisation. In other words, "mannish" shoes are sensible, practical and about as far from the fetish footwear trend of recent seasons as you can get. All hail the 'trend' for shoes that assist your passage from A to B as opposed to hindering it. Seen on the catwalks in the form of loafers, brogues and the occasional velvet gentleman's slipper (thank you, Jimmy Choo), they should be worn one of two ways. Those opposed to blisters and bunions should wear their brogues either with similarly androgynous pieces (think cigarette pants that stop at the ankle and a crisp, white shirt) or with contrasting pieces such as floral frocks and the like. Look to timeless brands such as Church's and Tod's, and don't forget the old adage that you should spend as much as you can afford on your footwear and on your bed because if you're not in one you're in the other.

b Remember that Joan Holloway, Betty Draper et al may look good, but their emancipation is still a decade away, and they might just long not to give a damn about their perfectly applied lipstick and sexy tailoring. Embrace the trend by all means, but be thankful that restrictive clothes and high heels are not your only option for autumn/winter 2010.